Santiago, like Chile, is much sleepier and conservative than its more lively counterparts along the Atlantic Ocean in Brazil and Argentina (and even, in some regards, Uruguay). Chilean culture doesn't steamroll you as immediately as, say, the tango-fueled Peronismo Italian-Latino hybrid that comprises Argentine culture. Peruvians huff that Chileans don't even have a true culture -- but rather stole it (or at least pisco sours) from Peru. Entering by coach or bus from the Andes is divine.
Neighborhood: Bella Vista. Hands down, the most energy in the city. Also home to La Chascona, one of Pablo Neruda's numerous homes in Chile, as well as any number of generally high-quality shops for lapis lazuli.
Monuments: La Moneda, the presidential palace, was worth the visit and worth the hassle of reserving a place over a week in advance. Unfortunately, the tour didn't include any information about the 1973 coup (the "other" September 11) against elected socialist president Salvador Allende; Allende and his presidential guard faced down the coup in the Moneda and Allende himself, after a defiant radio address, died in the struggle, having refused the coup leaders' offer of exile.
The national cemetery on the edge of town, and in particular the wall of memorials to the disappeared from the Pinochet regime, is a poignant bookend to a visit to La Moneda.
Day Trip: Valparaiso, a grittier port city, is home to a sea of hills and colored houses.
No comments:
Post a Comment