Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Santiago de Chile: What We ♥d.



Santiago, like Chile, is much sleepier and conservative than its more lively counterparts along the Atlantic Ocean in Brazil and Argentina (and even, in some regards, Uruguay). Chilean culture doesn't steamroll you as immediately as, say, the tango-fueled Peronismo Italian-Latino hybrid that comprises Argentine culture. Peruvians huff that Chileans don't even have a true culture -- but rather stole it (or at least pisco sours) from Peru. Entering by coach or bus from the Andes is divine.

Neighborhood: Bella Vista. Hands down, the most energy in the city. Also home to La Chascona, one of Pablo Neruda's numerous homes in Chile, as well as any number of generally high-quality shops for lapis lazuli.

Monuments: La Moneda, the presidential palace, was worth the visit and worth the hassle of reserving a place over a week in advance. Unfortunately, the tour didn't include any information about the 1973 coup (the "other" September 11) against elected socialist president Salvador Allende; Allende and his presidential guard faced down the coup in the Moneda and Allende himself, after a defiant radio address, died in the struggle, having refused the coup leaders' offer of exile.

The national cemetery on the edge of town, and in particular the wall of memorials to the disappeared from the Pinochet regime, is a poignant bookend to a visit to La Moneda.

Day Trip: Valparaiso, a grittier port city, is home to a sea of hills and colored houses.

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Seattle: What We ♥d.


As compared to Vancouver, Seattle is not quite as cosmopolitan, Asian or, generally, international (although it may be safer, especially in comparing the "downtowns"). Fremont is funky, but seems trapped in 1995, but that may be with prejudice to the era of Pearl Jam, Soundgarden and Nirvana.

Museum: The Seattle Asian Art Museum is a great way to spend a (rainy) morning or afternoon. The Chinese pillbox collection is a particular, if eccentric, delight. Be sure to note the sculpture in the front (Black Hole Sun!) and Volunteer Park's water tower observatory is a great place to view the Space Needle and the Seattle skyline.

Hip Bar: Sun Liquor. This bar captures the essence of Seattle. Unpretentious and a little grungy, but still sophisticated with a staggering attention to detail.

Coffee: Not to dwell on Capitol Hill, but Vivace is a hit, notwithstanding the long lines and the decidedly West Coast pace.

Food: Vietnamese Phở, just about anywhere you can find it.

Grocery: Uwajimaya, which comprises a full block of the International District. I found fresh galangal, among other Asian delights. Overall, I found the International District's Japanese quarter -- for Uwajimaya and food, as well as books and other stores -- to be the most vibrant of a vibrant set of Asian cultures.

Flora: Without a doubt, the variety of moss dotting the trees, sidewalks and otherwise throughout the city.

Monday, January 11, 2010

Vancouver: What We ♥d.



Wine: British Columbia wine isn't well known; the volume simply isn't sufficient for massive export. Okanagan Valley wines are a great place to start, but by all means do not cover the field. Poplar Grove's 2005 Syrah was the best I tried.

Design: nood (New Objects of Desire) is a fun Canadian line of well-designed houeshold products. The umbrella was exciting, especially in rainy Vancouver.

Leather: mo851. A Montreal-based company that designs bags and other leather goods. Move over, Jack Spade. Their colors are amazing, and the bags are designed so as to be neither too masculine nor too feminine.

Places: Sun Yat-sen Chinese Garden was well-designed and a delightful space, especially on a rainy day. Particularly peaceful in light of the not-always benign surroundings of Vancouver's Chinatown.

Food: Hapa Izakaya in the West End was a hidden gem recommended by a local. Even better when we found that the patrons were about 70% Asian, 30% hipster. The food was among the best Japanese fusion I've had. The Korean hot stone bowl with rice, egg, miso and pork was perfect in flavor and in presentation, and the tan-taka-tan shochu, flavored with shiso leaf, among the more palatable Japanese spirits I've tried. They also have a "Hello, Kitty" drink that's more dessert than libation. Salt Tasting Room in Gastown was also hip, edgy and of course delicious. Trust your waiter to choose as among charcuterie, cheese and condiments. Don't be afraid to try the beef tongue -- its grainy smoke flavor was the best sampling of the night, by far.

Coffee: For a chain, Blenz was better than most, including Starbucks. The mocha, prepared with dark chocolate, was especially decadent.